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The iceberg ahead


Amid the visibly destructive frontal attacks on the rule of law as well as our most valuable institutions, there’s a quieter yet equally destructive attack on our data.

The US government has traditionally kept databases separate, with information about citizens collected and stored on a need-to-know basis for each agency. No one entity had all the information about citizens in one place, and sensitive data was available only to key staffers. Data sets could be compiled, but only with good reason and often a court order. This was not “government inefficiency”, it was a safeguard of our personal, private data.

All that has changed with this administration, which is allowing a man with no official standing to steal all the data from all the sources and create a unified repository. DOGE has pushed its way in to agency after agency, firing anyone who stands in the way, and hooking up computers to directly download all that data to their own equipment. Outside of the law, outside of security protocols, outside of any right to know. Early targets were the Treasury and Social Security, because (supposedly) that leads them to identifying non-citizen immigrants but it is bigger than that.

On the surface this may sound harmless enough to many. If everything is in one place that means less duplication, faster flow of information, and lower costs. That’s certainly one way they justify it — efficiency! And if you’ve ever wondered why you have to keep repeating yourself on government forms, this streamlining may sound downright helpful. You may not even realize your info was previously siloed on purpose, or you may assume you already have no privacy so it isn’t worth worrying about. Certainly TV and movies already present this as reality, with law enforcement and hackers able to pull up complete info on someone instantaneously. Besides, you might think, I have nothing to hide!

But if you’ve ever read science fiction you’ll know that any entity holding universal, centralized data on citizens is highly dangerous. Think about it: Your tax documents alone may include bank routing numbers, employers, sources of income, assets, addresses, and dependents. Combine that with records of disability or medical claims, military service, immigration, travel history, criminal or civil actions, education, federal loans, and social security — and in the future potentially things entirely outside the government’s purview like financial records, DNA databases, and electronic health records — and all taken together they can track your whole life. Everywhere you’ve been, everything you’ve done, everything you might do. And when I say “they” of course I mean AI.

This can and will be weaponized. They can target people the algorithm predicts will speak out politically. They can decide who gets medical care based on genetic factors. They can guess who may have had traveled to another state pregnant and come back not-pregnant. They could theoretically monitor or seize assets held in any account you’ve ever used for a tax transaction.

And it doesn’t matter if you haven’t done anything wrong, they simply have to assert that you have. If this sounds far-fetched, know that we’re already experiencing accidental deportations, revoked visas, and instructions to self-deport based on error and mistaken identity. Computers and the internet are invaluable tools, but do not have their own intelligence — they require human oversight and regulation to work with us rather than against us. The idea that they’re moving so fast they don’t bother to check whose life they’re destroying is terrifying.

It’s especially dangerous in our current scenario, when all this data is being gathered by an entity that isn’t even a legitimate government agency. There’s no oversight or security. What if it’s hacked? What if they sell our data? What do they want it for? Data in the hands of unregulated technology and unrestrained capitalism is catastrophic.

This is hard to explain simply and makes a lousy protest sign. But this is big, really big. And we have to pay attention.

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Delusions of grandeur

This quotation from President Truman goes to show there’s nothing new about today’s political divisions:

"Republicans approve of the American farmer, but they are willing to help him go broke. They stand four-square for the American home but not for housing. They are strong for labor but they are stronger for restricting labor's rights. They favor minimum wage, the smaller the minimum wage the better. They endorse educational opportunity for all but they won't spend money for teachers or for schools. They think modern medical care and hospitals are fine, for people who can afford them. They consider electrical power a great blessing but only when the private power companies get their rake-off. They think American standard of living is a fine thing, so long as it doesn't spread to all the people. And they admire of Government of the United States so much that they would like to buy it." – Harry S Truman, October 13, 1948

Truman presided over the country from the end of WWII until 1953. Continuing FDR’s legacy he championed many progressive New Deal reforms and successfully brought Democrats together under that banner, but in the end was largely unsuccessful against a staunchly conservative Congress. Most of his causes would have to wait more than another decade for Lyndon Johnson and his Great Society, and sadly those wins are under attack 60 years later.

When Republican voters talk about “going back” to better times many are envisioning a very short post-war period from 1945 to 1960, when we were experiencing a strong middle class for the first time in our history. The war machine had generated investment and momentum that shaped how we saw our role in the world and created plentiful jobs and broad economic opportunity. And we stop the time window there, before the Civil Rights Act and the Vietnam War disrupt their idyll.

Of course this nostalgia overlooks how many people were left behind at the time — everyone who wasn’t a white man — and indeed that is the appeal for many who wish us back. But there’s a more profound omission here. They are also filtering out the collectivist ideals that led to that prosperity! The war effort was a singular moment of inclusion and integration in our history (if only because we needed all hands on deck to win) and that carried forward into the Space Race and seeing ourselves as global citizens. Middle class success also hinged on the rise of trade unions, federal housing assistance, and the GI Bill. The middle class prospered because we adopted policies derided as “socialist”. They simply can’t go back and have the success they remember without the progressive programs and institutions that were integral to it.

Their even greater delusion is thinking they are voting for a time before voting rights and birth control, while the people they revere and vote for have an entirely different destination in mind — the Gilded Age of the late 1800s. These elected officials and shadow leaders don’t want a strong middle class with good jobs and unions, and they prove this in their actions and policies every day. They are modern robber barons who will take all the resources by any means necessary and keep the masses hungry, desperate, and under their thumbs. And, like before, this will run us straight into an economic crash that will let them scoop up even more at a discount.

Buckle up.

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Imagine

Imagine you’ve had a friendly relationship with your next door neighbor for generations — almost as long as you’ve lived there. They are the best neighbors you could ask for! You visit each other often to share backyard harvests and lend a hand on improvement projects. They kindly overlook your rowdy parties. Your sons have even gone to war together. You have had each other’s backs for as long as anyone can remember.

Imagine you have now remarried your abusive ex, against all good judgment, and he intends to take over your neighbor’s plot for no reason other than he wants it. Not to mention, they have some nice-looking trees that he could chop down for a new patio! And because the neighbor has a reputation for being kind, he assumed they would simply hand it over. When they say no, as any reasonable homeowner would, your ex becomes aggressive and threatening. Now deeply offended, your neighbors put their elbows up to defend their property. Nearly all the other families take your neighbor’s side against this illegal bullying — leaving you isolated and vulnerable. His only remaining friends are a few gang leaders he admires and doesn’t realize are playing him.

Imagine belligerently alienating your best and most important neighbor, the one you relied on to get through difficult times and keep the neighborhood safe. Imagine driving away all your longtime friends and allies, and aligning with thugs. And thinking this all, somehow, will generate more respect rather than less.

Imagine.

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J’MTL (or, I love Montreal)

As I started to talk about last time, the city of Montréal set the tone for a relaxed, happy trip. It’s a vibe! The murals, the street scenes, the food, the people, everything. I loved it. My rusty French didn’t get me too far but I did okay!

My rental flat was in the Plateau-Mont-Royal neighborhood, a block from the Laurier Metro station, and I couldn’t have chosen a better location. The street was quiet, yet close to all the restaurants on Avenue du Mont-Royal. During the day I hopped on transit to see the sites, then returned each evening and walked to dinner. Exactly how I like to travel.

This highly walkable neighborhood is full of charm, with darling “plexes” and their historic metal staircases. I can’t help but wonder how in the world those are navigable during the icy months! But apparently they are a point of pride, and they contribute to the strong architectural character of the area. I would love to live here, except for that pesky winter problem.

Naturally I hit the downtown highlights including the Basilique Notre-Dame, which was as stunning as advertised. A happy surprise on my first afternoon downtown was spotting La Grande Roue, the ferris wheel at the old port. That wasn’t on my to-do list, but it is a tiny car that goes up high so of course I detoured over there! I was given my own private car with air conditioning going full blast, and it absolutely delighted my inner child — as well as my inner old person who was exhausted and needed a cool spot to rest a spell. Another day I stopped by the Barbie Expo, which was also a gift to my inner child.

No trip to Montréal would be complete without a visit to the namesake Parc du Mont Royal. After an afternoon spent gawking at murals followed by a satisfying brisket sandwich and cherry cola at Schwartz’s, I headed up the hill for a sunset vista. Lovely!

It was only a few days and due to health reasons I couldn’t pack it too full. But that might be better — I actually love a leisurely trip where I can sleep in, take my time, and take things as they come. I thoroughly enjoyed my time in both cities and am so glad I finally made it to this beautiful province.

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Traveling light (so to speak)

Except for getting stuck overnight in Toronto on my way home, I couldn’t have asked for a better trip. Everything planned went well and every day there was at least one happy surprise — a charming couple I met over bagels, a delicious coffee granita after a warm walk, chancing on a bakery with the best chocolatine aux amandes (not that I found any bad ones), an impromptu detour down a picturesque street.

More than anything, simply feeling good is what made this trip special. I haven’t felt like myself in a long time and after spinning out on packing, once I arrived my mood was light and I had the curiosity and openness needed to spark travel magic.

Having had this experience is, I think, precious right now as we head into a new presidential term that will undoubtedly bring chaos. You know that memory of the last moment you felt carefree, safe, or just normal before everything changed? The last time you went to a crowded event before the lockdown? That’s this trip.

Starting in Montreal may have been the key to inspiring a good mood that would travel with me. The vibe there was infectious in the best way! This city knows how to wring the most of out of summer before the harsh winter arrives. It was unusually warm for September but not too hot, and everyone was out taking advantage of clear skies as well as the walkable streets still closed to cars (but not for much longer) that make room for outdoor dining.

These pedestrianized streets were filled, day and night, with vibrant groups out strolling, drinking, and dining. It was a joy to witness! Because where I live, outside of San Francisco, our restaurant scene is struggling and many cities are experiencing the same difficulties. Anytime I see thriving neighborhoods and local economies it gives me hope for the future.

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The charms of Vieux Québec

The biggest misstep I made planning my trip was not understanding the topography of Vieux Québec. My lovely hotel was at the tippy top of the upper town, higher even than the Frontenac, which meant that every outing involved going down, and on return hiking back up. My dodgy knee did not appreciate this.

It did, however, provide an excellent vantage point. The hotel’s rooftop terrace — which is what sold me on the booking — had a killer view of the Frontenac and the silver rooftops. And just out the front door was a panorama of the river and Dufferin Terrace, including the Glissade ice slide.

The other upside of the location was proximity to the funicular that connects the upper city with the lower city. And, as I’ve established, funiculars rank very highly on my list of favorite attractions. The ride doesn’t last long but it’s fun, it has a great view, and beats hoofing the Breakneck Stairs any day. Five dollars well spent.

Once down in the Basse Ville, I wandered the old plaza and visited the Musée de la Civilisation but the standout feature for me was the public art — a couple of excellent trompe l’oeil murals are always there, plus a few unexpected exhibits. The flying pink characters, entitled “Le Mignonisme”, likely annoy traditionalist visitors as they climb on, fly between, and peek into some of the oldest buildings on the continent. There was also a thought-provoking installation, a wall of books blocking cannons on the waterfront. The artist seemed to have simpler intentions, but it was impossible not to read current context into it — books as the way to prevent violence, yet we live in a time when novels are banned, higher education is mocked, and facts are ignored.

It certainly is a picturesque city, hence all these photos! A few other sites around the old city, including the classic fortification walls and Parliament at night:

Vieux Québec, with all its charm and carefully preserved character, is where you find tourists, not locals. I could easily have hit the tourist highlights of this city in 2 days, one in the upper town and one in the lower. But I am so grateful I had extra days to get outside this zone, to see Wendake and Montmorency as well as neighborhoods including Saint-Roch. The day I took the bus back from Montmorency Falls I was finding my way back to my hotel from Place d’Youville and took a side trip up Rue Saint-Jean. My goal was just to grab a bottle of wine from the SAQ but I saw a cool church, and just started walking. Like all the best discovery walks, the streets come alive when you start really looking.

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Murals in Montreal

In the last 10 years or so, it’s been thrilling to see public art programs gain traction across so many cities. Why have a boring wall when you can have a colorful one? And Montreal lived up to the hype! The black and white is particularly special.

All of these were in the Plateau neighborhood, most around Boulevard Saint Laurent and Little Portugal.

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Chasing waterfalls

Building on my trip to the forest the next day I continued the nature bathing at Montmorency Falls (aka Chutes de Montmorency) located on the eastern edge of Quebec City. This trip fell just before autumn colors, but I got a small glimpse of the season to come.

Fun fact about me: If there is a funicular, gondola, or aerial tram in the area — any ride that goes high up and has a view, even a ski lift will do — I am on it. And this trip had 3 of them!

In addition to a gondola, the falls also offered a bonus suspension bridge. As I leaned over the railing to get a better look at the falls below, I had flashbacks of my scared-of-heights mother freaking out when we climbed up on guardrails at the Grand Canyon. For those who don’t enjoy flying in glass boxes or just want a challenge, there are some rather intimidating stairs available.

Once I crossed the suspension bridge I found myself near the edge of the park, and realized I wasn’t far from a bus stop that would take me back to Vieux Québec. I almost always focus on the destination more than the journey, but in this case I’m glad I took the slow route. Buses travel where people live, winding through neighborhoods that tourists usually don’t see. In this case, Beauport Quartier 5-4 and its picturesque houses that my architecture vocabulary is not sufficient to describe. My Google-fu is letting me down on that front as well. If I ever figure out more about these houses I’ll let you know!

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Forest magic of Onhwa’ Lumina

It took me almost 20 years from the time I bought a travel book for Québec — so long ago guidebooks were still relevant — to setting foot in the province. But I made it! And while I’m not the most unconventional traveler I do seek experiences that are less tourist-y and, ideally, something you could only do in that place. In Québec City, that experience was Onhwa’ Lumina in Wendake, home of the Huron-Wendat people.

I grew up in Arizona, surrounded by the history and artistry of the Tohono O’odham, Hopi, and Navajo people (among others) as well as their reservations. So learning that Québec has a First Nations reserve just outside downtown was a unique opportunity that could not be missed!

Onhwa’ Lumina is a forest night walk through a series of illuminated stories that celebrate Huron-Wendat heritage. I started out in a crowd, and lagged behind in the early stations so that I could shed the group and have the forest to myself. That had the side benefit of slowing my mind down, seeing past the spectacle and being more fully present. It was a poetic and beautiful experience.

This kind of multimedia site installation is quite difficult to do well and this was even better than expected. Tellement fantastique! After some tiring days, being immersed in the forest and storytelling was exactly what I needed to reset.

This clip is one of the most elaborate pieces, the creation of Turtle Island. In the legend, a sick A’taentsik falls from the Sky World and is saved from falling into the Water World by birds. She lands on the back of the Great Turtle, who calls the Animal Council to help heal her by bringing up earth from around the roots of a submerged tree. The Beaver, Otter, and Muskrat try but fail, and finally a grandmother Toad succeeds and with her last breath deposits earth on the turtle’s back. This forms the foundation of the continent known as Wendat, and life flourishes. This visualization plays out on a rocky hillside, using the terrain as a canvas for the story.

Before nightfall, I had time to explore a nature park along the lovely Saint-Charles River including the waterfall known as Kubir Kouba. This is where two geologic regions meet — the St Lawrence Lowlands and the Canadian Shield. And after that, dinner of a delicious bison short rib at the indigenous restaurant Sagamité.

This was a fantastic evening, one I will always remember.