Denial and hope
The last few leaves make their stand
Winter won’t take me
Haiku: Winter won’t take me
J’MTL (or, I love Montreal)
As I started to talk about last time, the city of Montréal set the tone for a relaxed, happy trip. It’s a vibe! The murals, the street scenes, the food, the people, everything. I loved it. My rusty French didn’t get me too far but I did okay!
My rental flat was in the Plateau-Mont-Royal neighborhood, a block from the Laurier Metro station, and I couldn’t have chosen a better location. The street was quiet, yet close to all the restaurants on Avenue du Mont-Royal. During the day I hopped on transit to see the sites, then returned each evening and walked to dinner. Exactly how I like to travel.
This highly walkable neighborhood is full of charm, with darling “plexes” and their historic metal staircases. I can’t help but wonder how in the world those are navigable during the icy months! But apparently they are a point of pride, and they contribute to the strong architectural character of the area. I would love to live here, except for that pesky winter problem.
Naturally I hit the downtown highlights including the Basilique Notre-Dame, which was as stunning as advertised. A happy surprise on my first afternoon downtown was spotting La Grande Roue, the ferris wheel at the old port. That wasn’t on my to-do list, but it is a tiny car that goes up high so of course I detoured over there! I was given my own private car with air conditioning going full blast, and it absolutely delighted my inner child — as well as my inner old person who was exhausted and needed a cool spot to rest a spell. Another day I stopped by the Barbie Expo, which was also a gift to my inner child.
Stained glass window in the Basilique Notre Dame depicting three prominent women from the early days of the settlement at Montreal: Jeanne LeBer, only daughter of a prominent family, became a religious recluse and donated much of her inheritance to religious orders; St. Marguerite Bourgeoys, teacher, founder of the Congregation of Notre Dame of Montreal and Canada's first female saint; and St. Kateri Tekakwitha, the "Lily of the Mohawks", North America's first Native woman saint.
No trip to Montréal would be complete without a visit to the namesake Parc du Mont Royal. After an afternoon spent gawking at murals followed by a satisfying brisket sandwich and cherry cola at Schwartz’s, I headed up the hill for a sunset vista. Lovely!
It was only a few days and due to health reasons I couldn’t pack it too full. But that might be better — I actually love a leisurely trip where I can sleep in, take my time, and take things as they come. I thoroughly enjoyed my time in both cities and am so glad I finally made it to this beautiful province.
Traveling light (so to speak)
Except for getting stuck overnight in Toronto on my way home, I couldn’t have asked for a better trip. Everything planned went well and every day there was at least one happy surprise — a charming couple I met over bagels, a delicious coffee granita after a warm walk, chancing on a bakery with the best chocolatine aux amandes (not that I found any bad ones), an impromptu detour down a picturesque street.
More than anything, simply feeling good is what made this trip special. I haven’t felt like myself in a long time and after spinning out on packing, once I arrived my mood was light and I had the curiosity and openness needed to spark travel magic.
Having had this experience is, I think, precious right now as we head into a new presidential term that will undoubtedly bring chaos. You know that memory of the last moment you felt carefree, safe, or just normal before everything changed? The last time you went to a crowded event before the lockdown? That’s this trip.
Starting in Montreal may have been the key to inspiring a good mood that would travel with me. The vibe there was infectious in the best way! This city knows how to wring the most of out of summer before the harsh winter arrives. It was unusually warm for September but not too hot, and everyone was out taking advantage of clear skies as well as the walkable streets still closed to cars (but not for much longer) that make room for outdoor dining.
These pedestrianized streets were filled, day and night, with vibrant groups out strolling, drinking, and dining. It was a joy to witness! Because where I live, outside of San Francisco, our restaurant scene is struggling and many cities are experiencing the same difficulties. Anytime I see thriving neighborhoods and local economies it gives me hope for the future.
The charms of Vieux Québec
The biggest misstep I made planning my trip was not understanding the topography of Vieux Québec. My lovely hotel was at the tippy top of the upper town, higher even than the Frontenac, which meant that every outing involved going down, and on return hiking back up. My dodgy knee did not appreciate this.
It did, however, provide an excellent vantage point. The hotel’s rooftop terrace — which is what sold me on the booking — had a killer view of the Frontenac and the silver rooftops. And just out the front door was a panorama of the river and Dufferin Terrace, including the Glissade ice slide.
The other upside of the location was proximity to the funicular that connects the upper city with the lower city. And, as I’ve established, funiculars rank very highly on my list of favorite attractions. The ride doesn’t last long but it’s fun, it has a great view, and beats hoofing the Breakneck Stairs any day. Five dollars well spent.
Once down in the Basse Ville, I wandered the old plaza and visited the Musée de la Civilisation but the standout feature for me was the public art — a couple of excellent trompe l’oeil murals are always there, plus a few unexpected exhibits. The flying pink characters, entitled “Le Mignonisme”, likely annoy traditionalist visitors as they climb on, fly between, and peek into some of the oldest buildings on the continent. There was also a thought-provoking installation, a wall of books blocking cannons on the waterfront. The artist seemed to have simpler intentions, but it was impossible not to read current context into it — books as the way to prevent violence, yet we live in a time when novels are banned, higher education is mocked, and facts are ignored.
It certainly is a picturesque city, hence all these photos! A few other sites around the old city, including the classic fortification walls and Parliament at night:
Vieux Québec, with all its charm and carefully preserved character, is where you find tourists, not locals. I could easily have hit the tourist highlights of this city in 2 days, one in the upper town and one in the lower. But I am so grateful I had extra days to get outside this zone, to see Wendake and Montmorency as well as neighborhoods including Saint-Roch. The day I took the bus back from Montmorency Falls I was finding my way back to my hotel from Place d’Youville and took a side trip up Rue Saint-Jean. My goal was just to grab a bottle of wine from the SAQ but I saw a cool church, and just started walking. Like all the best discovery walks, the streets come alive when you start really looking.
Murals in Montreal
In the last 10 years or so, it’s been thrilling to see public art programs gain traction across so many cities. Why have a boring wall when you can have a colorful one? And Montreal lived up to the hype! The black and white is particularly special.
All of these were in the Plateau neighborhood, most around Boulevard Saint Laurent and Little Portugal.
Chasing waterfalls
Building on my trip to the forest the next day I continued the nature bathing at Montmorency Falls (aka Chutes de Montmorency) located on the eastern edge of Quebec City. This trip fell just before autumn colors, but I got a small glimpse of the season to come.
Fun fact about me: If there is a funicular, gondola, or aerial tram in the area — any ride that goes high up and has a view, even a ski lift will do — I am on it. And this trip had 3 of them!
In addition to a gondola, the falls also offered a bonus suspension bridge. As I leaned over the railing to get a better look at the falls below, I had flashbacks of my scared-of-heights mother freaking out when we climbed up on guardrails at the Grand Canyon. For those who don’t enjoy flying in glass boxes or just want a challenge, there are some rather intimidating stairs available.
Once I crossed the suspension bridge I found myself near the edge of the park, and realized I wasn’t far from a bus stop that would take me back to Vieux Québec. I almost always focus on the destination more than the journey, but in this case I’m glad I took the slow route. Buses travel where people live, winding through neighborhoods that tourists usually don’t see. In this case, Beauport Quartier 5-4 and its picturesque houses that my architecture vocabulary is not sufficient to describe. My Google-fu is letting me down on that front as well. If I ever figure out more about these houses I’ll let you know!
Forest magic of Onhwa’ Lumina
It took me almost 20 years from the time I bought a travel book for Québec — so long ago guidebooks were still relevant — to setting foot in the province. But I made it! And while I’m not the most unconventional traveler I do seek experiences that are less tourist-y and, ideally, something you could only do in that place. In Québec City, that experience was Onhwa’ Lumina in Wendake, home of the Huron-Wendat people.
I grew up in Arizona, surrounded by the history and artistry of the Tohono O’odham, Hopi, and Navajo people (among others) as well as their reservations. So learning that Québec has a First Nations reserve just outside downtown was a unique opportunity that could not be missed!
Onhwa’ Lumina is a forest night walk through a series of illuminated stories that celebrate Huron-Wendat heritage. I started out in a crowd, and lagged behind in the early stations so that I could shed the group and have the forest to myself. That had the side benefit of slowing my mind down, seeing past the spectacle and being more fully present. It was a poetic and beautiful experience.
This kind of multimedia site installation is quite difficult to do well and this was even better than expected. Tellement fantastique! After some tiring days, being immersed in the forest and storytelling was exactly what I needed to reset.
This clip is one of the most elaborate pieces, the creation of Turtle Island. In the legend, a sick A’taentsik falls from the Sky World and is saved from falling into the Water World by birds. She lands on the back of the Great Turtle, who calls the Animal Council to help heal her by bringing up earth from around the roots of a submerged tree. The Beaver, Otter, and Muskrat try but fail, and finally a grandmother Toad succeeds and with her last breath deposits earth on the turtle’s back. This forms the foundation of the continent known as Wendat, and life flourishes. This visualization plays out on a rocky hillside, using the terrain as a canvas for the story.
Before nightfall, I had time to explore a nature park along the lovely Saint-Charles River including the waterfall known as Kubir Kouba. This is where two geologic regions meet — the St Lawrence Lowlands and the Canadian Shield. And after that, dinner of a delicious bison short rib at the indigenous restaurant Sagamité.
This was a fantastic evening, one I will always remember.
Finding the bright side of Vegas
To be honest, Las Vegas isn’t my kind of town. I’m not much into gambling, shopping, spas, or shows…and that leaves pretty much just food. Oh, and one of my oldest and best friends, who is the reason I occasionally visit this gaudy, ridiculously hot town.
One thing Vegas does have that speaks to my design soul is neon. And the best place to see vintage goodness is at the Neon Boneyard, a dusty outdoor refuge for signs sacrificed to continuous reinvention. Here you not only see the gorgeous colors, typography, and artistry of the signs themselves but also the accidental, layered compositions created by stacking them in. Since my last trip, they’ve restored enough to have nighttime tours which is very cool (as well as cooler, literally).
Fried Egg season
Visiting Wes Anderson’s Desert Dream
Don’t be surprised if you walk into my house one day and find that it feels a little like Wes Anderson’s Asteroid City. (I’m halfway there already with my color palette.) It’s a film worthy of many rewatches, not for the story but to live in that creamy, dreamy, surreal desert diorama for another hour and forty-five minutes.
The desert is my soul home, so I’m a sucker for the landscape and motifs as it is. But from the gorgeous suite of colors to the Looney Tunes backdrop, the creative direction of Asteroid City is truly stunning. It’s a work of art. Every frame is a beautiful, dynamic composition. The costuming signals character and builds an immersive world. There’s whimsy in every vending machine, auto shop prop, and road to nowhere.
I was especially taken by the lighting, which is overwhelmingly bright yet lush — not surprising as they used the sun as a primary light source. There’s a picnic scene staged under a lattice pergola, casting dappled light on the conversations. It’s not only visually interesting, but there’s something about the grid of shadow and light…half hidden, half exposed…checkered. Can’t quite put my finger on why this feels so important. Maybe I don’t have to explain it, it’s okay to simply enjoy it.
Off to rewatch!